Smokey Baccalà Mantecato Recipe: A Venetian Classic on the Arteflame

Introduction

There is a magical paradox in Venetian cuisine known as Baccalà Mantecato. It transforms a humble, dry slab of salted cod into a decadent, airy mousse that rivals the texture of the finest heavy cream. While traditional recipes call for boiling the fish indoors, bringing this dish to the Arteflame grill introduces a layer of complexity that purely stove-top versions lack. By poaching the cod on the flat cooktop and grilling the accompanying polenta or artisan bread over a wood fire, we infuse the dish with a subtle, smokey whisper that elevates the savory depth of the fish.

This recipe is more than just an appetizer; it is a ritual of patience and technique. The term "mantecato" refers to the vigorous whipping process that emulsifies the fish with olive oil and cooking liquid. The result is a spread that is incredibly smooth yet rich in flavor, perfect for an elegant outdoor gathering. Whether you are serving it as part of a grand seafood feast or as a sophisticated starter with drinks, this Smokey Baccalà Mantecato pays homage to Venice while embracing the rustic charm of open-fire cooking.

Ingredients

For the Baccalà

• 1 lb (approx. 500g) Salt Cod (Baccalà), high quality
• 1 cup Whole Milk
• 1 cup Water (plus more for soaking)
• 1 Bay leaf
• 1/2 teaspoon Black Peppercorns
• 2 cloves Garlic, peeled

For the Mantecatura (Whipping)

• 3/4 to 1 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (mild flavor preferred)
• Salt and White Pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon Fresh Parsley, finely chopped
• 1 clove Garlic (optional, for a stronger kick)
• Lemon zest (optional, for brightness)

For Serving

• Pre-cooked Polenta (sliced into squares) or Crusty Baguette
• Olive oil for brushing

Instructions

Step 1: The Essential Soak

1. Before you even think about lighting the grill, the cod requires attention. Rinse the salt cod thoroughly under cold running water to remove the surface salt.
2. Place the cod in a large bowl and cover it with cold water. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.
3. Change the water at least 3 times a day. This step is non-negotiable; if the cod is too salty, the final mousse will be inedible. After the final soak, drain and rinse one last time.

Step 2: Poaching on the Arteflame

1. Fire up your Arteflame grill. You want a medium-high heat on the flat cooktop.
2. Place a cast-iron skillet or a heavy-bottomed pot directly on the flat cooktop surface.
3. Add the soaked cod (cut into chunks if necessary), milk, 1 cup of water, bay leaf, peppercorns, and the 2 peeled garlic cloves. The liquid should just cover the fish.
4. Bring to a gentle simmer. Do not let it boil violently, as this can toughen the fibers. Simmer for about 20–25 minutes until the fish flakes easily with a fork.
5. While simmering, the open air and wood fire will impart a very subtle smokiness to the liquid and fish.

Step 3: Cleaning and Flaking

1. Remove the fish from the liquid and let it cool slightly. Reserve the cooking liquid (milk/water mixture)—this is liquid gold.
2. Carefully remove any skin and bones from the cod. Be meticulous here; the final texture must be perfectly smooth.
3. Flake the fish into a mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Mash the poached garlic cloves and add them to the fish.

Step 4: The Mantecatura (Whipping)

1. This is the transformative step. You can use a wooden spoon (traditional and tiring) or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (modern and efficient).
2. Begin mixing the fish vigorously to break up the fibers.
3. Start drizzling in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, just like making mayonnaise. As the fish absorbs the oil, it will become creamy, pale, and fluffy.
4. If the mixture becomes too stiff or dry, alternate adding a tablespoon of the reserved warm cooking liquid.
5. Continue whipping until you have achieved a mousse-like consistency. Season with white pepper and salt (taste first, as the fish may still retain saltiness). Fold in chopped parsley.

Step 5: Grilling the Accompaniments

1. Brush your polenta slices or baguette slices with olive oil.
2. Place them directly on the Arteflame grill grate (for char marks) or the flat cooktop (for an even crust).
3. Grill for 2-3 minutes per side until crispy and slightly charred.
4. Serve the warm or room-temperature Baccalà Mantecato on top of the grilled bread or polenta, garnished with lemon zest and extra parsley.

Tips

Achieving the perfect texture for Baccalà Mantecato requires balancing temperature and patience. Ensure your olive oil is not cold; room temperature oil emulsifies much better with the warm fish. If you add the oil too quickly, the mixture might split or become greasy rather than fluffy. Take your time adding the liquid fat. Additionally, the type of olive oil matters significantly. A robust, peppery Tuscan oil might overpower the delicate flavor of the cod. Opt for a Ligurian oil or a mild Extra Virgin Olive Oil to ensure the sweet flavor of the fish shines through.

Regarding the "Smokey" aspect: if you want a more pronounced smoke flavor, you can briefly place the poached, drained fish pieces directly on the Arteflame grill grate for 30-60 seconds before whipping. Be careful not to dry them out; you just want a kiss of smoke on the exterior before mashing.

Variations

While the traditional recipe is sacred to purists, the culinary world allows for delicious experimentation. Here are a few ways to tweak the recipe to suit your palate or pantry:

• The Potato Filler: In many households, a boiled potato is mashed into the fish. This creates a milder flavor and a lighter texture, and it also stretches the dish further.
• Dairy-Free: You can poach the fish in water only (no milk) and use strictly olive oil for whipping. This results in a slightly sharper, cleaner fish flavor.
• Truffle Infusion: Add a teaspoon of truffle oil or shaved black truffle during the whipping process for an earthy, luxurious depth.
• Venetian Spice: Add a pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon to the milk poaching liquid for a warming, aromatic background note typical of old-world Venetian cooking.
• Spicy Kick: Fold in some crushed Calabrian chili flakes at the end for a southern Italian twist.

Best pairings

Baccalà Mantecato is rich, creamy, and salty, which means it requires a beverage that can cut through the fat and cleanse the palate. The classic pairing is, without a doubt, a glass of Prosecco or a crisp sparkling wine. The bubbles act as a perfect counterpoint to the density of the mousse. Alternatively, a mineral-forward white wine like a Pinot Grigio or a Soave from the Veneto region harmonizes beautifully with the cod.

For food pairings, this dish shines when contrasted with textures and bitterness:

• Grilled Radicchio: The bitterness of charred radicchio balances the sweet creaminess of the cod.
• Pickled Vegetables: A side of giardiniera adds necessary acidity.
• Fried Sage Leaves: A crispy, herbal topping that complements the smokey notes.

Conclusion

Smokey Baccalà Mantecato is a testament to the transformative power of cooking. By taking a preserved ingredient and treating it with heat, moisture, and mechanical action, you create a dish of elegance and history. Using the Arteflame grill adds a contemporary, rustic dimension that grounds the dish in the elements of wood and fire.

This recipe is perfect for slow afternoons spent outside, where the ritual of preparation is just as enjoyable as the eating. Serve this to your guests, and you serve them a piece of Venetian history, reimagined for the modern outdoor chef. Enjoy the creamy, savory, and subtly smokey results of your labor.